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MAKING A 
ROSE GARDEN 



THE 

HOUSE & GARDEN 

MAKING 

BOOKS 

IT is the intention of the pubhshers to raake 
this series of little volumes, of which MaJcing 
a Rose Garden is one, a complete library of 
authoritative and well illustrated handbooks 
dealing with the activities of the home-maker 
and amateur gardener. Text, pictures and dia- 
grams will, in each respective book, aim to 
make perfectly clear the possibility of having, 
and the means of having, some of the more 
important features of a modern country or sub- 
urban home: Among the titles already issued or 
planned for early publication are the following : 
Making a Lawn; Making a Tennis Court; 
Making a Garden Bloom This Tear; Making a 
Fireplace; Making Roads and Paths; Making 
a Poultry Rouse; Making a Hotbed and Cold- 
frame; Making Built-in Bookcases, Shelves and 
Seats; Making a Rock Garden; Making a Water 
Garden; Making a Perennial Border; Making 
a Shrubbery Group; Making a Naturalized Bulb 
Garden; with others to be announced later, 




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MAKING A 
ROSE GARDEN 



By HENRY H. SAYLOR 




NEW YORK 

McBRIDE, NAST & COMPANY 
1912 



COPTRIGHT, 1912, BY 

McBRIDE, NAST & CO. 



^^ 






Published February, 1912 



£C!.A305915 



CONTENTS 



Introduction 



PAGB 
1 



Classification 



• o 



Location and Soil 



Preparation and Planting 



Fertilizing . 



Pruning 



Pests 



Propagation 



• • • 



• e 



• • 



. 11 



. 20 



. 25 



. 30 



33 



. 40 



Winter Protection . 



• • 



44 



Lists of Dependable Roses . . 46 



Glossary of Terms . . . .51 



THE ILLUSTRATIONS 

A Rose Garden with the Ideal 
Arrangement of Grass Paths 

Frontispiece 

FACING 
PAGE 

Ulrich Brunner, a Red Hybrid Per- 
petual Rose 4 

Marechal Neil, a Tender Climbing 

Tea Rose 8 

KiLLARNEY, OnE OF THE BeST HyBRID 

Teas . . . . . .12 

A Garden for Roses Only . . 14 

A Dormant Tea Rose as It Comes 

from the Grower . . .22 

A Stock of Manetti Grafted with 

AN Improved Variety . . .42 

A "Standard" Rose . . . .44 



INTRODUCTION 

I WELL remember the caution given me 
by a noted horticulturist when, in the 
sudden awakening to the joys of garden- 
ing, I was about to attempt the cultivation 
of nearly everything named in the largest 
seed and plant catalogue I could find : 

" Leave the rose alone ; it is not worth 
fighting for." 

And leave it alone I did, until one day I 
was browsing about an old book shop and 
came upon a well-thumbed copy of good 
old Dean Hole's " A Book About Roses." 
Let me tell you that there is something 
radically wrong with the person who can 
read that book and then go on plodding 
along his dreary, roseless way. 

But why, if there is such a book as that 
to be had, do I presume to put forth what 
can at best be but a feeble ray in its 
predecessor's blaze of inspiration? Merely 
because Dean Hole's book, and a later vol- 
ume by the Rev. Andrew Foster-Melliar 
that is almost as inspiring, with perhaps 



2 Introduction 

even more helpful guidance, are both writ- 
ten for the English rosarian and for a 
cool, moist climate that necessitates a 
somewhat different method of procedure 
throughout as compared with that which 
would bring success in growing roses here 
in America. Then too, there is to my 
mind something encouraging in a very 
small book, a book that will merely attempt 
to lay the foundations for the superstruc- 
ture that, after all, only experience can 
bring. Perhaps there are those who, like 
myself, are content with the bare essen- 
tials of classification, content to be told the 
basic rudiments of cultivation, and who are 
in haste to be done with all of these homely 
means to an end, that they may begin 
growing roses. 



Making a Rose Garden 

CLASSIFICATION 

WHEN one considers the fact that 
the majority of botanists recognize 
over a hundred species of the genus Rosa^ 
and that a French botanist lists and de- 
scribes 4,266 species from Europe and 
western Asia alone, it will readily be un- 
derstood that this chapter can give but a 
rough, working knowledge of groups and 
species. . 

Fortunately the amateur rosarian in the 
United States is concerned with very few 
of the species, largely for the reason that 
the efforts of our rosegrowers have natu- 
rally been confined to a few important 
groups where general merit is most 
strongly marked. Indeed, for the purposes 
of a modest rose garden, one would not 
go far wrong if he limited his choice of 
varieties to the Hybrid Teas, Hybrid Per- 
petuals and a few of the Teas, with sev- 

3 



4 Making a Rose Garden 

eral of the wichuraiana and rugosa hybrids 
for trellis and hedge. 

The name Hybrid Perpetual is borne by 
an enormous group of roses which have 
been derived from various species, crossed 
and recrossed until the parentage is in 
most cases hopelessly involved. The 
" Perpetual " half of the name signifies 
that the rose continues to bloom more 
or less frequently throughout the sum- 
mer. As a matter of fact, it is usually 
less. 

Teas or Tea-scented China roses form a 
distinct group that is readily recognized 
by the characteristic scent of the flowers 
and by the smoothness of its leaves. Teas 
are, in a way, the aristocrats of the rose 
garden. They bloom with no great blare 
of trumpets in June, like the Perpetuals, 
but they keep steadily at their work of 
producing exquisite blooms, one or two at 
a time, throughout the summer. Their 
one serious handicap is a lack of hardi- 
ness, which they possess only in a slight 
and very variable degree ; and they must 
be very carefully protected in the north to 
bring them safely through the winter, 
liven though I were forced tp buy new 




Uirich Brunner, a red Hybrid Perpetual that has 
achieved an excellent reputation. The H. P. type 
is characterized by hardiness and great freedom 
of bloom in June. Thereafter throughout the 
summer the burden of display must be borne by 
the Teas and Hybrid Teas 



Classification 5 

plants each spring, however, I would not 
have a rose garden without Teas. 

Hybrid Teas, as the name signifies, are 
successful crosses between the Tea and 
roses in the Hybrid Perpetual group. This 
class combines the persistence of the Tea 
with the sturdier growth of the Perpetu- 
als, and from it we shall probably get the 
great bulk of our garden roses for some 
years to come. 

The Moss Rose, of which you will surely 
want a representative in your garden, be- 
longs in the Provence group, as will be seen 
in the tabular classification at the end of 
this chapter. Who does not know its 
beautiful buds in their setting of mossy 
stems .f^ This rose, like many a one that 
has not gotten such a grip on our affec- 
tions, has refused steadfastly to mix its 
blood with another species, and has re- 
tained its good points and its bad ones for 
over three hundred years. It is quite 
hardy but is rather susceptible to mildew. 

There are other roses, too, outside the 
larger and best-known groups — roses that, 
because of some superlative merit in one 
direction or because of past associations, 
lay a strong hand on our heart-strings and 



6 Making a Rose Garden 

plead for an obscure corner of the new rose 
garden: the bristling Scotch Rose, the 
fragrant Damasks, the sweetbrier or eglan- 
tine with its inimitable fragrant foliage, 
the Penzance Brier Hybrids, the White 
Banksian of southern gardens with its odor 
of violets, the Persian Yellow of our grand- 
mothers' gardens, and the hundred-petaled 
Cabbage Rose, parent of the Moss. 

Climbing roses are to be found in many 
of the groups — Wichuraiana, Ayrshire, 
Polyantha, Musk, Noisette and as sports in 
the Hybrid Perpetual, Tea and Hybrid 
Tea groups. 

It is in another class, however, that we 
may look for the ideal American roses of 
the future. Not many years ago, came 
to us three natives of Japan, Rosa wichu- 
raiana^ Rosa multiflora and Rosa rugosa. 
From the first two has been developed by 
our American hybridizers the race of Ram- 
blers, while from the tliird has come such 
sturdy children as Conrad F. Meyer, per- 
haps the ideal hedge rose for our northern 
climate. In the estimation of Professor 
Charles S. Sargent, the dean of American 
horticulture, it is along the line of rugosa 
hybrids that we shall succeed in filling our 



Classification 7 

gardens with large, beautiful, hardy and 
continuously flowering roses. 

The climate of the South and California 
seems ideally suited to the Teas, producing 
a wealth of exquisite bloom that fills those 
of us that live in more trying surroundings 
with envy. In the South also they have 
the Cherokee Rose (Rosa laevigata or 
sinica)^ flourishing along roadsides and in 
great masses on the prairies, its long, arch- 
ing stems bearing a wealth of pure white, 
single flowers, four or five inches across, 
in a setting of brilliant, evergreen foliage. 
It is one of our American hybridizers' 
hopes and aims to cross, this with a hardy 
rose to gain sufficient stamina for the 
North. 

And out in Oregon, the Hybrid Per- 
petuals and Hybrid Teas grow to a size 
and beauty that is unsurpassed the world 
over. Practically every kind of rose can 
be grown in the Puget Sound district, and 
the amateurs of that locality seem to have 
as little trouble with rose pests as we do 
here with our hardy decorative shrubs. 

To sum up the whole matter of classi- 
fication and to show the relative positions 
of many groups that, for lack of space, 



8 Making a Rose Garden 

have not even been mentioned above, the 
following tabular key is given — a .slightly 
modified form of the classification given in 
the Cyclopedia of American Horticulture : 
/. Summer-flowering Roses, blooming once 
only 

A. Large-flowered (double). 

1. Grow^th branching or pen- 

dulous ; leaf wrinkled. 
Provence 
Moss 
Pompon 
Sulphurea 

2. Growth firm and robust ; leaf 

downy. 

Damask and French 
Hybrid French 
Hybrid Provence 
Hybrid Bourbon 
Hybrid China 

3. Growth free; leaf whitish 

above ; spineless. 
Alba 

B. Small-flowered (single and double). 

1. Growth climbing; flowers pro- 

duced singly. 
Ayrshire 

2. Growth short- jointed, gener- 




Marechal Neil, a tender climbing Tea rose, 
dark golden-yellow in color, requires winter 
protection in the North. The Tea is the 
aristocrat of the rose garden, unapproached 
for delicate fragrance, refined form of the 
individual blooms, and continued flowering 
throughout the summer 



Classification 9 

ally, except in Alpine. 
Briei's 
Austrian 
Scotch 
Sweet 
Penzance 
Prairie 
Alpine 
3, Growth climbing ; flowers in 
clusters. 
Multifiora 
Polyantha 
4'. Growth free; foliage per- 
sistent (more or less shiny). 
Evergreen 
Sempervirens 
Wichuraiana 
Cherokee 
Banksian 
5. Growth free ; foliage wrinkled. 
Pompon 
II. Summer- and Autumn-fiowering Roses, 
blooming more or less continuously 
A. Large-flowered. 

1. Foliage very rough. 
Hybrid Perpetual 
Hybrid Tea 
Moss 



lo Making, a Rose Garden 

2. Foliage rough. 
Bourbon 

Bourbon Perpetual 
S. Foliage smooth. 
China 
Tea 

Lawrenceana (Fairy) 
B. Smaller-flowered. 

1. Foliage deciduous 

a. Habit climbing. 
Musk 

Noisette 
Ayrshii'e 
Polijantha 

Wichuraiana Hybrids 

b. Habit dwarf, bushy. 
Perpetual Briers 

Rugosa 

Lucida 

Microphylla 

Berberidifolia 

Scotch 

2. Foliage more or less per- 

sistent. 
Evergreen 

Macartney 

Wichuraiana 



LOCATION AND SOIL 

IF there is any secret in connection with 
the growing of beautiful roses in 
abundance, it hes in the strict observance 
of a few fundamental principles through 
which the rose plants, or bushes if you 
will, are given a location and soil which 
they will find congenial and nourishing. 
If for one moment you may have thought 
that success depends upon some particular 
insecticide for the annihilation of the aphis, 
or some hard-and-fast rule for pruning, or 
the use of- a fertilizer having magical at- 
tributes, dismiss that thought from your 
mind, once and for all time. Insecticides, 
judicious pruning and suitable manuring 
have each an important part in the cam- 
paign, but transcending all of these is the 
first choice of location and the prepara- 
tion of the garden in which the roses are 
to grow. Warfare against the rose's ene- 
mies can be but a one-sided, hopeless strug- 
gle if we are working against nature all 
the way through. Far easier and more 

II 



12 Making a Rose Garden 

certain in effect will be our first efTorts to 
establish the rose plants themselves so 
firmly in healthful, congenial surroundings 
that they, rather than we, will bear the 
brunt of the battle against the insect pests. 

In China I am told that a custom once 
prevailed whereby the emperor paid his 
physician a good salary as long as the 
ruler kept his good health. If he fell ill 
the physician's pay stopped ; if he died, 
off came the practitioner's head. 

Be generous in the amount of thought 
and care you give in providing health, 
food and strength for your rose plants, 
and as a result you will have to give very 
little thought and care to curing disease 
and killing off the rose-bugs and slugs. 

In the first place let us take up the mat- 
ter of situation. Unfortunately most of 
us will have little leeway in this, for the 
average suburban place is not one that will 
offer hill and valley, windswept open space 
and warm shelter. The ideal location is 
to be found neither on a hilltop where the 
winter winds would play havoc with our 
winter protection, nor in a low hollow 
where frosts are always more frequent. A 
gentle slope to the south, well above nearby 




Killarney, the comparatively new Hybrid Tea 
rose, having a beautiful shell-pirk color, has 
achieved a wide popularity. The Hybrid Tea 
combines in a measure the hardiness of the 
Hybrid Perpetual with the continuous flower- 
ing habit of the Tea 



Location and Soil 13 

low spots into which the cold air will drain, 
sheltered in some way from the north, 
would be all that we could ask. In the 
matter of this shelter, however, we meet a 
further difficulty, for our rose garden must 
be kept well away from any trees. It is a 
matter of common knowledge that the root 
system of a tree will, as a rule, extend as 
far out from the base as the tree rises about 
the ground. Obviously it would be merely 
a waste of time and effort to locate the rose 
garden where the hungry roots of trees 
would rob it of the food supply furnished 
the roses. In general, therefore, we shall 
have to use the wall of a house or a gar- 
den wall for our needed protection, though 
in case of necessity we could sink a ma- 
sonry wall or an iron plate as a barrier be- 
tween the upper rich soil of our rose beds 
and the roots of the sheltering trees. 

Sun, it is perhaps unnecessary to say, is 
essential, though it will be found that if 
the beds are in shade for the first part of 
the morning one will have greater oppor- 
tunity of enjoying the roses at their best 
— before the dew has been drunk from their 
petals by the thirsty midsummer rays. 

The matter of the size and design of the 



14 Making a Rose Garden 

rose bed is of comparatively little im- 
portance ; what really is vital, however, is 
that the roses be permitted to have the 
beds to themselves — absolutely. But re- 
cently I read a magazine article purport- 
ing to be good advice for the rose-grow- 
ing amateur. Therein appeared words of 
regret that the rose must needs have such 
barcj, gaunt stalks, and suggesting as a 
remedy the growing of some vine about 
the base of the bush — I am not sure, indeed, 
that the honeysuckle was not specifically 
named for the place. I can well imagine 
that the result might be a very beautiful 
honeysuckle, but we should look there for 
the rose in vain. 

The Queen of Flowers will brook no lib- 
erties of this kind. She insists upon 
reigning alone in her glory, and anyone 
who dares presume to introduce even a 
low-growing, shallow-rooted ground cover 
with the intention of making the rose bed 
seem less bare, will never see his roses at 
their best. Personally I have never felt 
that a rose garden need be in the least un- 
attractive. There is one type of beauty 
that might be represented by a carpet of 
creeping phlox ; there is another that be- 




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Location and Soil 15 

longs to the rose garden, bearing its single 
blooms here and there, sparsely, among 
the green foliage and thorny stems. In 
the former instance one looks at the mass 
effect without a thought of the beauty of 
individual flowers ; in the latter case one's 
glance seeks out instinctively the single 
bloom to drink in its beauty and fragrance. 
Ah, but you say, how about the time when 
there is not a single rose in sight.'' There 
need be no such time between spring and 
fall if you plant your rose garden to best 
advantage. There is no need nor reason 
to put all the June-blooming roses to- 
gether, with the Teas and Hybrid Teas off 
by themselves in another place. If the re- 
montant types are interspersed through- 
out your garden you need never, between 
May and October, look for a rose in vain. 
The shape of the beds, too, may be such 
as to avoid an appearance of " too much 
dirt " in the rose garden. For my own 
part I would have a rectangular garden 
and simple parallelograms for the beds, 
although the rose garden about a central 
feature has its strong attractions. But if 
vou <irrange the beds in long narrow units 
-four feet wide for a double row of 




A suggestion for a rectangular rose garden with 
paths of turf. The beds are about forty inches 
wide, the paths four feet, excepting the center 
one, which is five feet in width. A hedge, which 
might be of rugosa, contributes a desirable air of 
seclusion 



Location and Soil 17 

plants or twenty inches wide for a single 
row, and as long as your purse will allow, 
having the paths between the rows of turf 
rather than gravel or brick, and the beds 
slightly sunk below this turf, the rose 
garden need never be less than most at- 
tractive. Avoid beds wider than will ac- 
commodate two rows of plants, for it is 
essential that every rose bush in the gar- 
den be immediately accessible from a path. 

To those intensely practical persons 
who object to walking through dew-wet 
paths in the morning tour of the rose 
garden, let me point out the obvious im- 
possibility of having gravel paths immedi- 
ately adjacent to the rose beds, and the 
continued care required to keep in a pre- 
sentable condition a narrow strip of sod 
between path and bed. 

Now as to the preparation of the rose 
bed itself. First of all, dig the soil out 
to a depth of tv/o feet at least, keeping the 
top soil and sods and the subsoil in sep- 
arate piles as they are taken out. Loosen 
up the floor of the trench with a pick and 
on this, if the ground needs draining, 
which it will if it is a compact, sodden 
surface, put a layer of stones, cinders 



1 8 Making a Rose Garden 

and other material that will not decom- 
pose. On top of this place the best of 
the sub-soil mixed with a generous dressing 
of well-rotted manure. Finally, add the 
sod, well broken up, and the top soil, also 
enriched with manure. Then fill in the 
bed with enough good top soil, unmanured, 
to bring it two or three inches above the 
adjoining surface. Make sure that the 
surface of the bed, after it has settled, 
will be about one inch below that of the 
adjoining sod in order to retain the 
moisture from rain. This preparation of 
the bed should be done at least several 
weeks in advance of planting time. 

In composing the soil for the rose bed, 
it is well to remember that the Hybrid 
Perpetuals require a heavy soil contain- 
ing some clay. For Teas and Hybrid 
Teas a lighter, warmer soil is better. In 
his most admirable " Book of the Rose," 
tlie Rev. Andrew Foster-Melliar tells 
an amusing incident in connection with 
soil. The good rector was dining out and 
had been served with a generous portion 
of plum pudding. It was very dark, rich, 
strong and greasy. Absent-mindedly he 
sat back in his chair gazing at the dish 



Location and Soil 19 

intently. His hostess, noticing his hes- 
itancy, asked if anything were wrong with 
the pudding. " Oh, no," repHed the rec- 
tor unthinkingly, " I was thinking what 
rare stuff it would be to grow roses in." 

Top soil from an old pasture, if it be a 
moderately heavy loam, taken with the 
grass roots and chopped very fine, will do 
excellently for the Hybrid Perpetuals. For 
the Teas and Hybrid Teas, mix with soil 
of this kind about one-quarter of its bulk 
of sand and leaf mold to lighten it. Re- 
member that all the manure that is used 
should be incorporated with the lower two- 
thirds of the bed; the upper third should 
not contain any recently added manure as 
it is apt to harm the roots of new plants. 



PREPARATION AND PLANTING 

IN the vicinity of New York and further 
north, I think it will be found that 
spring planting is best. South of Phila- 
delphia many roses are set out in the fall, 
for here they become well established be- 
fore cold weather sets in, and are there- 
fore ready to start active groAvth at the 
first touch of 'spring. 

If spring planting is chosen the plants 
must be put in the ground early — at the 
very first opportunity — so that they will 
have time to become firmly established be- 
fore hot weather. Pot-grown plants from 
a greenhouse cannot, of course, be set out 
until all danger from frost is past. Roses 
that are planted so late cannot be ex- 
pected to show really satisfying results in 
bloom the first year. Roses that are 
planted early in the spring, if field-grown 
stock as explained below, will with proper 
cultivation give at least a reasonable 
amount of bloom the first year, though not 
so much as in later years. 

20 



Preparation and Planting 21 

One hears a great deal of argument on 
the question of whether roses are best 
grown on their own roots or when grown 
on a sturdier stock, such as Manetti for 
Hybrid Perpetuals and brier for Hybrid 
Teas, which are probably the best rose 
stocks for this country. It seems to be 
the general consensus of opinion that roses 
budded on these stocks will thrive much 
more luxuriantly and give much better 
blooms than those which depend upon 
their own root systems. It is necessary, 
however, to set the point at which the 
shoot is budded to the stock about two 
inches beneath the surface ; otherwise there 
is the constant danger that suckers will 
spring from the root and, if overlooked 
for a time, these will kill the more desirable 
shoots. 

Several kinds of roses are offered by the 
dealers for setting out in the spring. 
There are the pot-grown roses mentioned 
above — the only form in which many of 
the climbers may be readily obtained. Mail- 
order houses make a practice of sending 
out the Hybrid Perpetuals, Hybrid Teas 
and Teas also in this form of very young 
plants grown from cuttings under glass 



22 Making a Rose Garden 

during the winter. Costing more, and 
surely far more dependable, are the field- 
grown roses that have originally been 
budded on Manetti or brier and, usually 
in two-year-old form, taken out of the 
ground the previous fall while dormant, 
to lie in cold houses until ready for plant- 
ing. Such roses as these will surely bloom 
the first season and are far better equipped 
for the shock of being set into the open 
ground again than the pot-grown plants 
that have never had a taste of real garden 
life. 

A word of warning might profitably be 
uttered against the cheap roses budded 
on multiflora stock, grown in Holland and 
sold in some of the department stores. 
They are short-lived and very poor in com- 
parison with plants on brier and Manetti. 
Multiflora has been entirely discarded as 
a stock by English and Irish growers. 

Roses on their own roots have the ad- 
vantage of being cheaper, due to the sav- 
ing of labor in striking cuttings rather 
than budding — one-year-old plants cost- 
ing a dollar for six to a dozen ; two-year 
and three-year-old bushes, which are, of 
course, far more desirable, cost more in 




A dormant Tea rose as it is received from the 
grower for planting in March. After planting 
it should be still further pruned 



Preparation and Planting 23 

proportion. Dormant, field-grown budded 
roses cost, in the two-year-old size, from 
thirty-five cents to a dollar each. 

Before setting the plants examine each 
carefully and cut off the broken roots with 
a sharp knife, as well as all eyes that may 
appear on the root stock, in order to fore- 
stall suckers. The plants should be set 
immediately upon their receipt from the 
nurseryman, so that they will not become 
dried out. If they seem dry it may be 
well to puddle the roots in thin mud just 
before setting. Make the hole large 
enough to accommodate all of the plant's 
roots without crowding, remembering to 
put the budding point not less or more 
than two inches below the surface and 
with the roots spread out nearly horizon- 
tally, but inclining downward towards their 
ends and without crossing one another. 
This will not be an easy matter, for in 
shipment the roots will have probably 
been so compressed that they extend al- 
most directly downward from the collar. 
After the plants have been firmly set and 
the earth carefully packed in around the 
roots, rake the soil to loosen it up over 
the whole surface. The soil will probably 



24 Making. a Rose Garden 

be moist enough at the time to need no 
watering. 

With the pot-grown plants, the moist 
ball of earth that comes about the roots is 
carefully retained intact and placed in the 
hole prepared for the plant. Set the 
plant firmly in place by pressure with the 
soles of your shoes, give a generous water- 
ing and finally break up the surface of the 
soil with a rake. 

It is absolutely essential to keep the sur- 
face of the ground loosened with a hoe 
and a sharp steel rake throughout the 
summer. After very hard rain loosen the 
soil as soon as it is dry enough to work, 
to conserve the moisture. 



FERTILIZING 

IN striking contrast to the exquisite 
beauty of the rose is the food that we 
must give it in abundance if we would 
have the most healthy plants. But for 
the true rose enthusiast the turning over 
of a muck heap to find manure in just the 
right form, or the dilution of the by- 
products of the cow barn with water to 
make the best stimulant, have nothing 
about them that is in the least objection- 
able. 

If the .soil at our disposal is inclined to 
be rich in clay, we can probably do no 
better than incorporate well-decomposed 
stable manure with it, by raking it, well 
pulverized, into the surface in the early 
spring. In sandy or gravelly soils, how- 
ever, cow manure or that from the pig- 
sty will serve far better. It must be re- 
membered that when properly set out 
the rose plant is comparatively shallow- 
rooted, so that this raking of fine old 
manure into the soil must be just that, and 

25 



26 Making a Rose Garden 

not the deep digging of half -rotted ma- 
nure into the bed with a spading-f ork. The 
aim in the method advocated is to put the 
soHd manure where the spring rains will 
carry it in time to the feeding roots, and 
in the liquid form in which it is readily as- 
similated. 

The theory of this manurial feeding will 
make clear the fact that a proper applica- 
tion of liquid manure has practically all 
the advantages of the former method with- 
out its drawbacks. For solid manure, if 
applied to the beds in quantities sufficient 
to be of real value, has a tendency to keep 
the needed air out of the top soil, and to 
bring in its train an abundance of weeds 
that will be hard to exterminate. So that, 
with the exception of light sandy soils, 
where the humus is needed, we shall do well 
to feed the rose garden liquid nourish- 
ment. 

The time when this stimulant will be 
most eiFective is in the months of May and 
June, when most of the plants are putting 
all their efforts into the forming buds. 
Withhold the liquid in dry spells, for it is 
most appreciated immediately after a 
good, soaking rain. 



Fertilizing 27 

Avoid getting the manure on the 
fohage, and make sure that it errs on the 
side of weakness rather than strength. 
Suspending a burlap sack containing a 
bushel of cow manure in a barrel of water 
for two days, will give a solution that 
needs dilution with its own bulk of water. 
A half -gallon to a plant each week will be 
a sufficient normal feeding. 

Immediately after dosing the beds go 
over them with a rake or prong-hoe and 
loosen up the surface to prevent evapora- 
tion. 

A vital principle in feeding rose plants 
is one that seems to be overlooked in- 
stinctively by seven out of ten amateur 
gardeners. It is this : A strong-growing, 
healthy plant needs and will absorb a large 
quantity of liquid manure ; a sickly plant, 
or one that is not yet well established, does 
not need and cannot absorb even the nor- 
mal quantity of this food. Yet how often 
are we tempted to feed to excess this weak- 
ling and withhold food from that nearby 
sturdy bush, because the latter " doesn't 
need it." Just bear in mind the fact that 
we do not give burgundy to a puny child 
that is struggling against the effects of 



28 Making a Rose Garden 

malnutrition, but that a healthy, growing 
boy can consume an astonishing amount of 
food and drink. 

To review the year's activities in fer- 
tilizing : let us put a top dressing of rough 
manure over the beds in the fall, about 
three inches deep, with further protection 
where the climate demands it. In the 
spring we shall rake off the coarse portion 
of this covering, leaving the finely pulver- 
ized manure to be raked gently into the 
top soil if it needs this additional humus 
(the manure's food value will have been 
washed down by the winter's rain and 
snow). If our soil is clayey the whole 
top dressing will be hoed off. In May and 
June come the generous applications of 
the liquid manure, and for the Teas and 
Perpetuals that really do continue to 
flower, these applications may well be con- 
tinued through the summer at less fre- 
quent intervals, leaving off at the end of 
August, let us say, so as not to encourage 
unnecessarily the late summer's growth of 
wood. 

Although not many of us, in all prob- 
ability, will meet the unusual condition of 
having for our rose gardens only an over- 



Fertilizing 29 

fertilized soil in a long-used garden, it 
may be well to mention the fact that such 
a soil will not produce good roses. Treat- 
ment with lime will help matters for a 
time, but if within the range of possibility 
we should remake the garden with virgin 
soil. 

The use of nitrate of soda and like 
stimulants may be undertaken sparingly in 
the spring, but these are better left to 
those gardeners who have learned, possibly 
through disastrous experiences, how prop- 
erly to use them. 



PRUNING 

THE rose is one of those plants that 
seem to need the firm hand of man to 
direct them in the way they should grow. 
If left to their own devices, most of the 
highly cultivated roses revert quickly to 
lower types ; they need the pitiless pruning- 
knife to spur them to their best endeavor. 

It will readily be seen that severe prun- 
ing, as a general principle, tends towards 
greater beauty of individual blooms, while 
light pruning is conducive to a better 
rounded-out form of bush at the expense of 
the flowers. Or, again, the severe pruning 
gives quality of bloom as opposed to quan- 
tity of bloom. 

Always cut back the plants severely 
when first setting them out — Teas and 
Hybrid Teas less than the Hybrid Per- 
petuals, and the climbers least of all. 

Unreasonable as it may seem, the plants 
of vigorous habit of «Trowth need less prun- 
ing than the less active ones. 

Pruning may be started with the dwarf 
30 



Pruning 3 1 

Hybrid Perpetuals in March — leaving four 
or five canes three feet in length if large 
masses of bloom are wanted. The result 
will be a large number of small flowers. 
If, on the other hand, fewer and larger 
flowers are wanted, all weak growth should 
be removed and every healthy cane re- 
tained and cut back in preparation for the 
plant's development. The weakest should 
not have more than four inches of wood 
left on the root, while the strongest may 
have eight or nine inches. Always prune 
a cane about a quarter of an inch above 
an outside bud unless the cane is very far 
from the vertical, when an inside one 
should be left for the terminal shoot. See 
that the w'ood is not torn or bruised in the 
operation. 

The pruning of Hybrid Teas and Teas 
had better be postponed until the first signs 
of life appear. The bark becomes greener 
and the dormant buds begin to swell. Dead 
or dying wood will then readily be notice- 
able and it may be removed. Remember 
that these two classes do not need such 
severe pruning as do the Hybrid Perpetu- 
als ; twice the amount of wood may safely 
be left if it seems promising. 



32 Making a Rose Garden 

Dormant rose plants bought in the spring 
will arrive from the growers already partly 
pruned. In general, from one-half to 
two-thirds of the remaining length of cane 
should be cut off when the plants are set 
out, removing entirely all bruised or dead 
wood. Bear in mind always, if your con- 
science revolts at such severe cutting, that 
the strongest dormant buds are nearest 
the base of the plant and it is these we 
want to force into growth to bear the prize 
blooms. 

With the ramblers very little cutting 
is needed ; merely cut back the shoots that 
seem to be outdistancing their neighbors 
by too much, and cut out entirely the dead 
canes. 

The rugosa is intended to be a bush 
rather than a strong, lean plant for prize 
blooms. Merely cut out old, dry wood 
and trim back the longer shoots to the 
desired form. 

Use a first-class pair of pruning shears 
in order that the work may be done quickly 
and, above all, with clean cuts that show 
no tearing or abrasion of the bark. 



PESTS 

ONCE more let me repeat the fact that 
by far the most effective campaign 
against the insects and other pests that in- 
fest rose plants is to be found, not in 
sprayings and dustings, but rather in 
maintaining to the best of our ability a 
condition of health in the plant itself. 
Prevention here, as always, is better than 
cure. Nor can it be too strongly empha- 
sized that the daily use of a powerful but 
finely divided spray from the hose will 
make life on the rose plant miserable for 
practically all of the parasites. 

The following are the chief enemies that 
we may encounter in the rose garden. 
They are briefly described so as to be 
recognizable when found, and for the an- 
nihilation or keeping in check of each is 
given one of the many remedies. Prac- 
tically every rosarian develops, after a 
time, his own pet formulas for these poi- 
sons, so that rose books will be found to 
contain a wonderfully varied assortment of 

33 



34 Making a Rose Garden 

weapons — so numerous in fact that one 
would think the army of rose pests could 
never live to continue their depredations 
another season. 

Aphis or Green Fly 

A small, pale green louse, winged or 
wingless, with a soft, fat, oval body ap- 
parently too big for its legs. A single 
aphis in five generations may become the 
progenitor of 6,000,000,000. 

Tobacco smoke is an excellent weapon, 
or, if a spray is found more convenient 
to apply, a solution of 4 oz. of tobacco 
stems boiled for 10 min. in 1 gal. of soft 
water, will do. The same weight of quas- 
sia chips may be substituted for the to- 
bacco. If the tobacco is used, the cheapest 
that can be bought is the best for the pur- 
pose. Strain the solution and add 4 oz. of 
soft soap while it is still hot, stirring well 
to dissolve the soap. 

Another remedy — 1 qt. of soft soap 
boiled in 2 qts. of soft water, adding 1 pt. 
of paraffin before cooling — is well recom- 
mended. It should be applied diluted with 
soft water to ten times its bulk. The 



Pests 35 

paraffin acts as an astringent which, to- 
gether with the soft soap, cleanses the 
plant of honey-dew, which is exuded by 
the aphis to protect its feet against cold 
and wet. 

Mildew 

A fungous disease that may appear 
when the rose plants are in a damp, shady 
or ill-ventilated location. Although some 
varieties are more susceptible than others 
to this disease, the rose garden located out 
in the open, where the air has unobstructed 
access, will not be troubled much by mil- 
dew. When the disease appears late in the 
autumn it need not be feared. 

Dusting flowers of sulphur upon the 
foliage, taking care to reach the under 
side of leaves as well as the upper, and 
upon the ground about the plants, is a 
well established remedy. It will be found 
convenient to shake the powder from a 
baking-powder can, the end of which is 
punched with holes, if a regular powder 
gun is not at hand. Use the sulphur in 
the early morning, when the dew will help 
to hold it on the leaves, or else spray the 
plants with water beforehand. 



36 Making a Rose Garden 

Rose Thrip 

A small, yellowish white insect with 
transparent wings^ usually found on the 
under side of the rose leaves. ' This pest 
appears in swarms and in an astonishingly 
short time turns the foliage yellow. 

If the pest appears, spray the rose 
plants daily with a hose as suggested above. 
If this does not prove efficacious^ dust the 
under side of the leaves with white helle- 
bore in a powder gun. Whale oil soap 
solution, in the proportions of 5 oz. of 
soap to 1 gal. of water, is a very good 
remedy. It is easier to dissolve the soap 
if the water is hot. 

Rose Caterpillar or Leaf-roller 

Several kinds of caterpillars may ap- 
pear, varying from one-half to three-quar- 
ters of an inch in length, and either green, 
yellow or brown in color. They have a 
habit of enveloping themselves in the rose 
leaves, or boring their way into the flower 
buds. In the latter case they are very 
apt to be overlooked. 

Powdered hellebore will hinder their 
progress, but by far the most effective 



Pests 37 

weapons are the finger and thumb — 
gloved, if you msist. 

Rose Chafer or Rose-hug 

This brown beetle, less than one-half 
inch in length, is one of the best-known 
rose pests. It is a slow-moving creature 
that appears suddenly in armies in the 
blooming season in June, and is the more 
annoying for the reason that it devotes its 
attention almost entirely to the flowers 
themselves. 

Paris green, dusted over the plants, will 
kill the pest, but this poison has a disagree- 
able way of showing no intelligent discrim- 
ination in the choice of its victims. Really 
the only satisfactory method of attack is 
to knock the stupid creatures ofl^ the 
flowers into a tin of kerosene and then 
burn it. 

Rose Slug 

The larvae of a saw-fly which comes up 
out of the ground in May and June. The 
female makes incisions in the leaves and 
deposits her eggs, which hatch out in about 
two weeks. The slugs will eat an aston- 
ishing am.ount of leaf if not checked. They 



38 Making a Rose Garden 

are about a half-inch long, green, and will 
be found on the upper side of the leaf. 

Powdered white hellebore, dusted on the 
foliage, or the solution of whale oil soap 
mentioned for the Rose Thrip, will keep 
it in check. 

White Grub 

An underground enem}^ that feeds on the 
roots of rose plants. The withering or 
sickliness of the plant is sufficient reason 
to cause a thorough search to be made by 
lifting it. The grub, which is provided 
with six legs near the head, and which coils 
itself into a crescent shape when in repose, 
is particularly fond of strawberry plants, 
so it will be well to keep these some distance 
away from the rose garden. 

There is no insecticide that will be ef- 
fective, because of the underground point 
of attack. Lifting the plant and remov- 
ing the grub is the only thing that can 
be done. 

Bark Louse or White Scale 

This appears when the rose bush is 
grown in a damp, shady place. It is snow 



Pests 39 

white and individual scales are about one- 
tenth of an inch in diameter, irregularly 
round. 

Cut off and bum badly infested shoots. 
Spray with 1 lb. of soap in 1 gal. of water 
in early winter and again in early spring. 
Weaker summer applications may be used 
also — 1 lb. in 4 or 6 gal. once in three 
weeks throughout the season will reach all 
the larvse. 

Our Allies 

It is well to remember that there are 
friends of the rose in the lower animal 
world as well as enemies — the toad, lady- 
bug, ground-bird and swallow, particu- 
larly. Th-e toad is sometimes brought by 
the English gardeners from a distance to 
help wage war on the pests ; the lady-bug 
may be passed thankfully by when seen; 
and it may be w^ell to try attracting the 
birds to the rose garden by scattering a 
few crumbs there daily — not too many, but 
just enough to arouse a real appetite for 
insect pests. 



PROPAGATION 

THE propagation of his own stock is 
a task for which the expert is better 
fitted than the beginner for whom this 
book is written. Nevertheless, I doubt 
whether the amateur will pass through his 
first year of rose growing without wish- 
ing to make an attempt to multiply the 
stock of those roses which have with him 
been most successful, or to bud a choice 
variety from a friend's garden on the fos- 
ter-parent stock for his own place. 

Whereas in England the process of bud- 
ding is carried on very widely and with 
fair success among amateur and pro- 
fessional rosarians alike, with us this means 
of propagation seems fraught with greater 
difficulty. Excepting in the case of vari- 
eties that do not readily root from cut- 
tings, this latter method of propagation 
is generally adopted where roses on their 
own roots are desired. 

The best time for taking cuttings from 
a plant is towards the end of the summer, 

40 



Propagation 41 

when the ripe wood of the current year's 
growth will be available. Ten inches is a 
convenient length for the pieces and some 
rosarians feel that if a " heel," or por- 
tion of older wood, remains on the lower 
end there will be greater likelihood of root- 
ing. Remove all but the two top leaves 
and set the cutting in a li^ht soil, or even 
in pure sand, so that only the two upper 
buds are exposed. Leave the cuttings in 
the ground until the following autumn, 
when those that have taken root may be 
transplanted and set at a less depth in their 
permanent quarters. 

Budding is a far more interesting 
process to carry through, and by it we 
may have sturdier roses on a stock like 
Manetti or brier. A very sharp knife is 
required, with some raffia for tying the bud 
securely into the stock. In the limited 
scope of this book I can but indicate very 
roughly the general procedure, and, in- 
deed, budding is far more readily learned 
by watching a skilled rosarian do it than 
by reading many pages of description. 
Briefly, then, a bud, which may be found 
under any petiole, is carefully sliced, with 
its surrounding bark and backing of wood. 



42 Making a Rose Garden 

from the half-ripe stalk of the variety to 
be propagated, leaving the petiole in place 
to serve as a handle. This is probably 
best done in July. After removing very 
gently the wood backing from the bark 
and bud, the latter are slipped into a T- 
shaped incision in the foster stock, this 
incision to be made through the bark to 
the actual wood of the stalk. The bud 
and its supporting bark are inserted be- 
tween the wood and bark of the stock, the 
latter then being wrapped with a few turns 
of raffia to hold the bud in place. After 
a period of a month the bud will either 
have taken hold or failed, and the tie may 
be removed. 

The rose plants that we buy already 
budded on Manetti or brier are produced 
in this way, excepting that the bud is in- 
serted very low on the stock, so that the 
junction will be underground. This is the 
more desirable place for budding, insur- 
ing, if we nip the suckers as they may 
appear, a plant that above ground 
shows only the shoots of the desired va- 
riety. 

Grafting is practiced only in the case 
of roses grown under glass, when the scions 




A shoot of an improved variety of rose grafted and 
held in place with raffia to the stock of a sturdy 
growth like Manetti. At tlie right is a ''sucker" 
or growth from the root, and it must be cut off as 
soon as it appears 



Propagation 43 

are cleft into stocks of Manetti or brier 
grown in pots for the purpose. 

Layering is used as a means of increas- 
ing the stock only in the case of roses 
that do not readily strike from cuttings. 
It consists of bending down a long shoot 
so that a section of it may be pegged un- 
derground to take root. 
■ Propagation by seed is limited to the ef- 
forts to obtain new varieties after cross- 
fertilization, and is a discouragingly slow 
and uncertain process. 



WINTER PROTECTION 

IT will be a red-letter day for amateur 
rosarians when the existing favorites 
among rose plants shall have been so im- 
proved by cross-breeding that we can leave 
off all the winter overcoats of straw, brush 
and earth, with the happy knowledge that 
spring will find as many live plants in the 
rose garden as we rejoiced in during the 
previous season. 

Although the Hybrid Perpetuals are, 
for the most part, sufficiently hardy to 
withstand an ordinary winter unprotected, 
it is still the part of wisdom to conserve 
their energy and health by hoeing up the 
earth about their bases and putting over 
all a top dressing of rough manure when 
protecting the Hybrid Teas and Teas. In 
the northern states it will be well to tie up 
the tops of the latter with straw or to sur- 
round the bed with a border of boards or 
wire netting, after winter has set in, and 
cover the plants with a thick blanket of 
leaves held down by brush. This protec- 

44 




In England the "standard" rose, having a long stem 
of the foster stock, is quite common. With us it 
is less frequently seen on account of the bother 
of proper winter protection 



Winter Protection 45 

tion should be removed gradually in 
March. 

Where the winters are particularly se- 
vere, a still more certain precaution is to 
dig up the plants and lay them in well- 
drained trenches, covering them with earth 
and a further layer of leaves, straw or 
•brush. The aim is not to protect the 
plants from freezing at all, but to pre- 
vent the alternate freezing and thawing 
that is so disastrous. 

Another treatment for tender roses is 
to winter them in boxes of soil in a cool 
cellar. In case this is done, see that the 
earth is not allowed to dry out entirely. 
At planting time in the spring the dor- 
mant plants will be taken out, dipped in a 
bucket of thin mud and replanted in the 
garden. 

While we may be willing for the present 
to take such precautions with the garden 
roses, most of us will not care to coddle 
the climbers to anything like this extent. 
Beyond hoeing up a mound of earth about 
the bases of these and top-dressing them, 
we shall let the climbers fight their own 
battles, and leave the result to the prin- 
ciple of the survival of the fittest. 



LISTS OF DEPENDABLE ROSES 

IT is a difficult matter, indeed, to select, 
from the experience of rose growers 
and from the long lists of the nursery- 
men's catalogues, a few that may be safely 
named as the best roses. In fact, it is a 
task that no one would care to undertake. 
It may be helpful, however, to add the fol- 
lowing list ; these are by no means the 
only good roses, but in choosing any or 
all of these the amateur cannot well go 
astray. For the benefit of his experi- 
ence and advice regarding these lists, I 
am indebted, among others, to Dr. Robert 
Huey, of Philadelphia — probably the most 
experienced amateur grower of roses in 
the United States. 

It has been thought best not to attempt 
individual descriptions nor to go very far 
into details of color. The lists, then, are 
grouped into rough sub-divisions under the 
main colors, and it will be understood that 
" pink," for instance, will include a rather 
wide range of varying tints. 

46 



Lists of Dependable Roses 47 

Hybrid Perpetuals 

White — Merveille de Lyon, White 
Baroness, Frau Karl Druschki, Margaret 
Dickson, Mabel Morrison, Gloire Lyon- 
naise (in reality a Hybrid Tea, but as it 
blooms only in June it may be included 
in the Hybrid Perpetual class). 
' Pink — Baroness Rothschild, Caroline 
D'Arden, Heinrich Schultheis, Her 
Majesty, Lady Arthur Hill, Mrs. George 
Dickson, Mrs. Harkness, Susan Marie Ro- 
docanachi, Mrs. John Laing, Paul Ney- 
ron, Marie Finges, Marquise de Castel- 
lane, Mrs. R. S. Sharman-Crawford, Sou- 
venir de la Malmaison. 

Red — • Captain Hayward, Fisher 
Holmes, General Jacqueminot, Oscar Cor- 
del, Ulrich Brunner, Duke of Edinburgh, 
Duke of Teck, Anne de Diesbach, Duke of 
Fife, Etienne Levet, Prince Arthur, Ard's 
Rover (climber). 

Prince Camille de Rohan is the best of 
the very dark roses, among which also are 
Sultan of Zanzibar, Louis Van Houtte, and 
Xavier Olibo. These, however, are weak 
growers and frequently do not bring their 
blossoms to perfection. 



48 Making a Rose Garden 

Teas 

White — White ?*Iaman Cochet, Hon. 
Edith Gifford. 

Pink — WilHam R. Smith, Maman 
Cochet, Souvenir d'un Ami, Duchesse de 
Brabant, Mrs. B. R. Cant.^ 

Yellow — Harry Kirk, Etoile de Lyon, 
Francis ca Krueger, Isabelle Sprunt, 
Safrano, Marie Van Houtte. 

Hybrid Teas 

White or light-colored and mixed — ' 
Viscountess Folkestone, Pharisaer, Molly 
Sharman-Crawford, Ellen Wilmot, Grace 
Molyneaux, Antoine Revoire, Joseph Hill, 
Mrs. A. R. Waddell, Betty, Prince de Bul- 
garie. La Tosca, Kaiserin Augusta Vic- 
toria. 

Pink — Killarney, Lady Alice Stanley, 
Lady Ursula, Dean Hole, Lyon Rose, 
Dorothy Page Roberts, Madame Edmee 
Metz, Lady Ashtown, Mrs. Charles Cus- 
tis Harrison, Caroline Testout, La 
France. 

Yellow — Duchess of Wellington, Mrs. 
Aaron Ward, Madame Ravary, Madame 



Lists of Dependable Roses 49 

Melanie Soupert, Madame Hector Leuil- 
lot, Melody. 

Red — George C. Waud, Lawrent Carle, 
Gruss an Teplitz, Chateau de Closvoges, 

Etoile de France. 

I 

Moss Roses 

White — Blanche Moreau. 
Pink — Crested Moss. 

RuGOSA AND Its Hybrids 

White — Blanc Double de Coubert ; Rosa 
rugosa, var. alba. 

Pink — Conrad F. Meyer. 

Red — Arnold; Rosa rugosa, var. rubra. 

WiCHURAIANA HYBRIDS 

White — WIchuraiana, White Dorothy. 
Pink — ^Lady Gay, Dorothy Perkins, W. 
C. Egan, Sargent. 
Red — Hiawatha. 

Noisettes 

Yellow— Cloth of Gold, Reve d'Or 
(climber). Fortune's Yellow. 



50 Making a Rose Garden 

POLYANTHAS 

White — Trier, Catherine Ziemet. 

Pink — Tausendschon, ClothiWe Soupert. 

Red — Carmine Pillar. 

Prairie Roses 

White — Baltimore Belle. 
Pink — Rosa setigera. 

Austrian Briers 

Yellow — Harrison's Yellow, Persian 
Yellow, Austrian Copper. 



A GLOSSARY OF TERMS 

Anther — a rounded knob-like form at the 
top of the stamen, containing the pollen. 

Callus — a swelling which occurs at the 
base of a cutting previous to the forma- 
tion of roots. 

Calyx — the narrow green leaves or sepals 
forming the covering for the bud. 

Corymb — a group of flower stalks arising 
from a common stalk and forming a 
level top. 

Cutting— ra section of a stalk containing 
several eyes or dormant buds, taken for 
the propagation of a new plant. 

Disbud — ^to deprive a stalk of flower buds 
by pinching or rubbing these off^. It 
is done in order to throw more energy 
into the remaining bud or buds. 

Hep or hip — the seed pod. 

Hybrid — a new species resulting from the 
cross-fertilization of two species. 

Leaflet — a single member of the compound 
leaf borne by all rose plants. 

Maiden plant — a plant blooming for the 

51 



52 Making a Rose Garden 

first time after being budded or grafted 
to a stock. 

Ovary — the hollow lower end of a pistil, 
containing the embryo seeds. 

Panicle — a cluster of flowers borne irreg- 
ularly on a stem. 

Petiole — the stalk to which the several 
leaflets are attached. 

Pistil — the seed-bearing organ in the cen- 
ter of a flower, consisting of one or more 
styles, one or more stigmas and the 
ovary. 

Pollen — the powdery substance found in 
the anthers. 

Remontant — applied to roses that flower 
the second time in a summer. 

Sepals — ^the narrow green leaves of a pithy 
texture forming the calyx. 

Sport — a shoot or sucker from a plant, 
showing some peculiar feature or 
features distinguishing it from its 
parent. 

Stamens — the male organs surrounding 
the pistil. 

Stigma — the upper end of the pistil, ca- 
pable of receiving the pollen and con- 
nected with the ovary by a tube extend- 
ing down through the style. 



A Glossary of Terms 53 

Style — the erect columnar support of the 
stigma. 

Sucker — a branch or shoot proceeding 
from the root or stem of a plant, below 
the surface of the ground. Frequently 
used as meaning a shoot from the root- 
stock of a budded or grafted plant. 



i 11 i9^2 



